COMPUTERS HOW AND WHAT TO
BUY
Introduction to Computer Hardware
Notes: This
is an outline of the Seminar that I have taught for years, updated for
the summer of 2003.
I. INTRODUCTION
A. Only modern computers will be discussed for the most
part.
B. Only what is currently produced will be discussed in any
detail. If what you want to buy in not in the discussion DON'T buy
it.
II. I need my computer to do....
A. This is the most misleading area of all.
Computers without software do absolutely nothing except beep at you.
B. If you want it to do.... then you will need
to buy software that will let you do.... This has nothing to do with
buying a computer. The computer is HARDWARE. If
you buy the right HARDWARE then you should be able to run any software.
C. If you stay with middle of the road or better computers
with name brand parts inside then you will always be able to run any software
that is on the market and probably for the next 3 years.
1. Wise saying from one of my ex-computer teachers:
"If you paid too much for a computer and it does what you want it to, then
you lost a little money. If you buy a cheap computer and it doesn't
do what you want it to, then you have LOST everything. "
III. WHAT TO BUY
A. Good computers are a SUM of good NAME BRAND parts
assembled together to make a BETTER computer.
1. No manufacturer makes all the parts that make up
their computer system. Most do not make a single part or at best
one or two parts. This means EVERY name brand computer.
B. Most computer contain what is called an "Integrated motherboard."
This computer has one or more of the parts soldered into the main central
part of the computer (motherboard). On upgrading or repairing
one of these type of computers you pitch the whole computer in a dumpster
and buy another new one. (Most salesmen always will tell you the
integrated computers are upgradable. I guess after you throw the
main computer in a dumpster you could say the monitor and keyboard are
then upgradable?)
1. Commons brands that use a integrated motherboard
in most if not all of their computer lines are: Compaq, IBM
(the worst two), Packard Bell now know as NEC, Gateway, AST, Dell, Micron,
Sony, HP Pavilion, Brio series and probably lots more.
C. The following is a list of all the separate parts that
good computers contain one or more of:
1. CPU, (central processing unit) three major designers
a. Intel:
1> Intel Celeron Chip -- JUNK,
JUNK, JUNK! They run slower than most of the old Pentiums do!
They are 100 or 133 MHz bus speeds where all better chips are 133 MHz or
better . (33% slower before you get into the poor internal design
and cache problems). Almost all if not all use integrated motherboard
design! Motherboards for these chips are always low grade.
A Celeron 2 GHz is about the same speed as a Pentium 1 GHz.
2> Pentium III 1000-1400 MHz (not worth the money, except
in Servers. )
b. AMD Duron 1300-2000 MHz.
d. AMD Athlon XP 1.7+ to 3.2+ (the rating is based on
Pentium 4 equals, GHz is actually less)
(I recommend Intel Pentium or AMD all the time and have for years.)
2. MOTHERBOARD: the main board that all other internal parts
plug into either directly (cards) or indirectly through cables. In
addition memory modules and CPUs plug in also.
a. Available in 100-166 MHz for AMD & Intel.
Intel uses 100/400 or 133/533 or 133/800. AMD 133/266 166/333.
3. FAX DATA MODEMS
a. The standard is V92 56K transfer (NOT Flex or X2
--- both obsolete).
b. Available also with voice features. Not used much unless
you want to use your $1000+ computer in the place of a $50 telephone answering
machine.
1). If you are looking for a voice mail system then
purchase an old used 386 or 486 computer.
3. RAM (random access memory) made in memory modules
a. Obsolete: 30 pin (connector) SIMMs (single inline
memory modules)
b. Four year obsolete: 72 pin SIMMs and all EDO configurations
(seen sometimes in Celeron boards).
c. New size and style: DIMMs (Double or Dual Inline
Memory Modules)
1). SDRAM in 66 MHz speed or 100 MHz speed, or 133
MHz (Synchronized Dynamic Random Access Memory)
d. DDR (double data rate... hoax in reality) 133, 166 MHz.
e. RAMBUS, (RIMM) Intel P4 motherboards, 400 MHz. Our dealings
so far with these is that they are lots of hype. A 800 MHz P3 with RAMBUS
ran slower with a bare install of Windows 98 slower than the 700 MHz Athlon
shop computer by at least 20%. A Dell P4 1.4 GHz at one of our inherited
customers runs have the spend of the older Dells P3s that have PC 100 memory
in them.
4. HARD DRIVES or HARDRIVES
a. Various brands: Samsung, Hitachi, Maxtor,
Seagate, Western Digital.
b. This is the slowest part of the computer that is used every
day, maybe even thousands of times a second.
c. Having a good brand and speed of hardrive can double
the overall speed of your computer!!
d. Various RPM speeds, 4500, 5400, 7200. A good design 5400
RPM and a good design 7200 RPM run the same speed in all software 98% of
the time. 7200 RPM run hotter and will have a shorter life expectancy.
d. IBM, Samsung, Maxtor are the slowest overall but
they are cheap. Lots of low end computers have these. Sometimes they
are $30-40 cheaper than the other brands above.
e. I recommend Seagate or Western Digital. They
usually have been good drives and are usually the fastest in most independence
tests.
f. Millisecond access time is a waste of your
time. This fact about a hard drive's speed means nothing in comparison
to its real speed inside a computer running everyday programs like Windows
and some office package.
g. The standard is called DMA 133 or Ultra DMA 100.
As far as transfer it makes NO difference, the problem with hardrives are
that they are mechanical devices not electronic.
h. SCSI interface hardrives will not be discussed
here. About the only reason to own them is for very large file servers
where you need 100's of gigabytes of storage.
i. Raid and Serial ATA will not be discussed either.
Both are designed for very high end servers Dual P3 or AMD MP or Opteron
or Zenon servers.
5. Sound cards:
a. ONLY ONE NAME BRAND: Creative
Labs (sometimes called Creative) SoundBlaster!
b. Creative Labs is the manufacturer of "SoundBlaster."
1). SoundBlaster is the original sound card made about
12 years ago.
c. Creative Labs sells raw chips. Make sure you have
a physical card in your machine. Make sure the card is stamped Creative,
not a Chinese card with Creative chips on it.
6. Monitors
a. In modern terms they are all called "Super
VGA"
1). Not VGA, EGA, MCGA, CGA (obsolete predecessors)
b. SVGA should mean 1024 X 768 resolution or better.
Common resolutions are 640 X 480 (lowest), 800 X 600 (most used),
1024 X 768, 1600 X 1200.
1). 99.9% of all users use 640 X 480 or 800
X 600 resolutions everyday, all day.
2). The only people I have ever seen that use the 1600
X 1200 are engineers who work on a 21" to 35" monitors drawing or using
blueprints.
c. Make sure you SVGA color monitor can deliver 1024 X 768
at 60 Hz or higher scan frequency. This is stamped on the sides
of the box with most better brands. (It is a good selling point.)
Even though you may never use the higher resolution, with age the 60 Hz
goes down. At 56 Hz most monitors quit working properly if at all.
d. DOT PITCH: available from .24 to .28.
In the old days .26-70 was available. .24 is better but expensive!
As a 45 year old I cannot tell the difference in a .27 or .25.
I can tell the difference in the brands and the coloration though. The
worst scrap monitors I have seen was at the so called Discount or Office
Stores.
1). If possible, compare side by side from the
same computer different monitors. It's your eyes and headaches.
e. SIZE: 15", 17", 19", 21", 27", 35", LCD projector.
1). 15" today are primarily rejects or seconds
or refurbished.
2). 17" are about $30 to $50 more than a 15" and worth
every penny. Once you have been on a 17" you never want to go back
to small. 19" are about $125 more than 17".
3). 19" are about the biggest you can see with your peripheral
vision without backing up from the monitor. $50 more than 17" monitors
and again worth every penny.
f. WARRANTY: buy three year period; they are better quality
almost always. Buy name brand: CTX, KDS, AOC, Toshiba, Samsung, NEC,
Panasonic, Viewsonic.
1). These are like VCR's very few tube manufacturers
and just a few more that make their own boards and other internal parts.
7. CACHE
a. From about the 286 computers, the memory has never
ran the same speed as the processor. To try and make up the difference
supper fast memory called "cache" was used to help speed up the time lag
between the processor and the memory. SDRAM is very similar to cache.
b. Cache is internal on all chips now. More the better.
IV. WHERE TO BUY
A. Discount Stores
1. Places like: Office Depot, Sam's Club, Comp USA,
Best Buys, Circuit City, Sears, Walmart, etc.
B. Mail Order Manufacturer OEM's (original equipment
manufacturers, or sometimes and more properly called "assemblers")
1. Micron, Gateway, Dell, IBM, local custom computer
builders, etc.
C. Local Computer Store (elsewhere) that ships to your area
1. Various names, usually small businesses that are
doing well. (I did not sell my first computer outside of a 50 mile
radius until my 8th year in hardware.)
D. Local Computer Store
1. OEM's (original equipment manufacturers) or assemblers
2. VAR's (value added resellers, buy someone else's
and resells it.)
a. Independent small business
b. Locally operated store. (Gateway is trying to mash out the home
town people with their new Gateway stores.)
V. BEST PRICE: GOOD AND BAD FROM EACH
SUPPLIER
A. Discount store (cheapest on lower speed computers,
highest on high speed, high end machines when or if they even have them.)
1. Thirty day money back guarantees with some of them
and this is all the warranty that you have! Some manufacturers will not
back their own computer if purchased from an Office/Computer Super Store
after the 30 days!
2. Old or refurbished merchandise common (see #1 above or
read the side of the box or the fine print.)
3. Not high quality computers
4. Lot of integrated or proprietary parts inside.
5. No service departments and seldom qualified sales people
(they sell dishwashers on Thursdays)
6. No custom configuration or options past a monitor or printer.
Some "special sales" don't even allow that.
7. They sell bare minimum or do not include necessary items
like printer cables or mouse pads or enough memory. Then they mark
up the parts 500%. Example an IEEE printer cable cost about $7 at
Office Max it was $31.95 and they were the cheapest of the three discount
stores in my area.
8. Can sell previously sold computers because of money back
guarantees. Most do a good job with the shrink wrap machines. I have
opened used computers straight out of the Factory sealed(??) packages more
than once.
9. They have service contracts or insurance policies because
they make more money on them then the computers. Can be an advantage if
the backer of the policy is there when you need them. (Flip a coin
and take your chances.)
B. Mail Order Manufacturers (next cheapest on lower speed computers,
next to highest on high end computers.)
1. Three year warranties out of their own back pockets.
Don't ever open the case, no warranty! Never upgrade, no warranty, software
additions removes Tech Support.
2. One bad year will bankrupt most of these manufacturers.
a. The third largest computer distributor in the world
when bankrupt about 8 years ago. I have seen lots more distributors and
manufacturers go under since. Many older major computer companies and system
manufacturers have or are leaving the business. No business can survive
on a least than 10% mark up.
3. Quality is fair overall. (Their main concern is price, too
much competition for them to do anything else. $50 difference in
price, they are out of the business permanently.)
4. Some have technical support 24 hours a day. Some, you will
need it about 2:00 AM California time. Call the "Tech Line" a few
times before you buy and see if you ever talk to a human or even better
one you can understand!
5. Wide variety of computer parts inside. Seldom can
you state exactly what you want inside and get it. (I have opened
many Gateways that were delivered the same day and nothing but the outside
case was the same!)
6. One of my customers, whose network we maintain, bought
the best Dell computer they make. A couple of things they ordered
was wrong. It took two weeks to get the right options. It did not
even have a SoundBlaster sound card inside! It was also $200 more
than what we would sell matching Dell's lower grade parts to our better
parts. In all our recent quotes we print off Dell's website quote
and staple it to our with "can't they do better then this" printed on it.
7. Some of these can do custom configuration with some options
like hardrive sizes (not brands), video or sound cards, etc.
8. They have pretty advertisements. To the uneducated "pretty"
sells. But if you can, please explain the "cow" to me and why do I want
it?
9. Tech people, usually teenagers, are fairly good answering
software questions, but heaven help you on hardware problems. Gateway's
own brand of modems (made to their specifications by US Robotics) have
given me problems for years. Most of the time it is cheaper to the
customer for me to replace one with a new US Robotics or another descent
brand than to fight with them.
C. Local computer stores doing mail order (OEM's)
1. Prices usually around the above suppliers on low
and middle of the road computers, much cheaper on the high speed computers
if they sell them.
VI. It broke, now what?
A. Good question. Find out before you buy WHO
works on the computer if it dies, in the warranty period and out of it.
1. Is it fixed locally by the company who sold
it to you?
a. Is the repair done in their own repair shop or
is it shipped by them back to the manufacturer (not a part like the VGA
card but the whole computer. All integrated motherboard brands go back
to an authorized factory repair center. You can tell if he is telling
you a lie.)
VII. My computer is old and too slow now. What about
upgrading it?
A. Example of a person who brought in a two month old computer
purchased from Office Max. Estimate to make the computer into one
with real parts and install a real version of Windows 98: $475 (All
programs have to be reinstalled by the customer or $25 per hour charge.)
B. A 2 year old customer of ours wanting to upgrade: $265.
(This person losses nothing in software. He also will have a faster computer
than the poor discount store buyer because he has better parts to start
with even 2 years old.)
VIII. Conclusion
A. Buy locally, when possible, from someone who can
custom build you computer and works on it in his own shop.
B. Don't get into the "looks" of the business. Face it, big
million dollar+ buildings are paid for by low end junk at inflated prices.
C. You pick the internal parts (SoundBlaster, Western
Digital or Seagate, Nvidia) and make sure you see what the inside
of the case looks like, (real computer people have nothing to hide).
D. Buy middle of the road or better, never barest minimum
or obsolete. You may need an upgrade sooner than you think.
Last update 10-15-2003.
To avoid all who want to sue me: "This page reflects my personal
opinion and 17 years of experience. I have seen many come and go
with beautiful ads and hype. As the Bible says, "there is nothing
new under the sun." This page was done to make people educated computer
shoppers, not sale price hunters. The educated shopper will buy quality
95% of the time and from someone like us.
Copyright 1998, 2003 by G. Allen Walker. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
The following is granted only to churches or individuals who do not service,
program or sell computer hardware or software, you may freely copy this
for any discussion groups or general information type meetings provided
said material in not part of any "paid" activity of any kind. |